The grass is easy to put on the layout. The following is low grass. Low grass dyeing will be covered later. High grass and low grass are mounted the same. A pelt larger than the area covered is needed. Extra fur will be needed to supply tufts to hide the edges.
The low grass piece will be mounted in the area next to the switch. Large areas of low grass require a different technique. Tall grass can be seamed together and be made in small pieces.
A piece of low grass is placed in the desired area and cut to size.
The fur piece is cut smaller than the area. This allows the edges to be covered by tufts of fur to hide the edges. The felt base is quite thick. Small pieces don't need an irregular border. The tufting makes the irregular edge.
Spread glue in an area larger than the pelt. I use either matte medium or white glue. I like the matte medium because it has a wide mouth for brush insertion.
Press the pelt into the glue. There should be a border of glue around the pelt.
Tufts are cut from a piece of extra fur. Use embroidery scissors like on the right. They cut "tufts" much better because of the curved blade.
The tufts are pressed into the glue to hide the edge. The glue is used to make an irregular edge.
Push the tufts into the glue. Small pelts can be joined. Leave a gap between the pelts and fill it with tufts.
Tuft all around the pelt. The glue line determines the border.
The tufts hide the edge and give an irregular look.
Small tufts are glued outside the border to give a further natural look. The grass should look like it is taking back the land.
Tall grass is applied the same way. The fur used for tall grass has a thinner back so is easier to apply. Glue tufts away from the mass of grass in apparent water run-off lines. Grass follows where water flows. Grass slowly moves outward along those lines filling the bare spots later.
DO NOT use soil or ground foam to hide the edges. I spent weeks figuring out how to hide the cloth backing. This is the only method that will look like the grass is growing.
