Pull the Boiler Stays and the Lubricator piping away from the boiler indicated by the circles. Push the chisel blade behind the boiler lug and twist. Don't worry about slightly displacing the cylinders. The initial removal is the hardest.
The back lug is easy just put a screwdriver under it and the boiler should be free.
Take off the Phosphor bronze contacts and place them in your scrap box. Never throw anything away.
Cut of the upper brush lead leaving about 1/8" left.
Bend the cut off piece from the upper lead as shown and solder it to the lower lead.
With a razor saw or cut-off tool in a Dremel sever the Copper on the PC board top.
Putting the shell on there is usually interference at the point in the circle. Grind a little off the boiler and it will go right on.
Put the boiler back on by engaging the rear lug and then snapping the boiler into the front lug.
Take the locomotive completely apart. Don't attempt to drill the harness channel with the locomotive mechanism assembled. It will be a big mess. Wanna how I know, D-OH!!.
Put the bottom plate back on the assembled frame halves. Drill a 3/64 pilot hole into the lower frame half. It should be 3/32 from the edge of the screw head.
Drill through the metal frame halves one at a time.
This would be a good time to tune the chassis. Make sure the wheels turn freely. I had to adjust the bottom plate wheel lugs to get the wheels to spin freely. The locomotive appeared to run well but there was a e definite problem.
Cut a wire channel in the upper frame half. Smooth the edge at the arrow so the wires make a gentle bend into the channel.
Make a wire route list. Double check it. If the wires are wrong the decoder will be ruined. Don't use this list, make your own, your wire scheme is different.
Assemble the locomotive.Bend the drawbar to compensate for the higher tender.
Run the harness wires into the locomotive. Squeeze the wires against the bottom frame plate to give them a permanent angle. Plug the connectors into the correct socket on the tender. Allow slack in the wires. Test the locomotive on a curve to see if the wires interfere with movement.
Chamfer the hole in the frame bottom plate.
Using the wire route list solder the wires to the corresponding locations.
The track power wires go to the bottom of the lightboard. They have to clear the motor clip at the arrow.
The finished locomotive will run better than it did before because of the Tsunami's advanced electronics. It will sound great also. All that is left is cosmetic. An offset down coupler will lower the coupler height on the tender to make a temporary hookup to run trains.
The articles on this website are "what I did's", they don't tell "how I did it" but what I was doing. They are a running account of the operation. I am sure there are probably different ways of doing things but that always comes in future trials.
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