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The On30 PcalRwy uses a homemade link and pin system for coupling. We use a U-link to replace the three piece prototype. It is impossible to use the prototype system on a layout. We will delve here into putting drawbars on the Bachmann On30 Consolidation.
The tender coupler pad is a big pain. If we didn't have sound already installed we could have milled it off. The pad was ground off using a motor tool and a cylindrical cutter. Doing it again I would only open the sill a 1/4".
The coupler blank is made from 1/8" ABS plastic.
The tender floor is drilled and tapped for a mounting screw.
The centerline and sill line is marked on the blank.
The blank lines up with the car drawheads. The Bachmann cars have a drawbar center line of 27" corresponding to the Ohio River and Western prototypes they are based on.
Grinding off the old lug left an un-even surface for the coupler blank. A shim was added at the back to level the drawbar.
The width of the drawbar is scribed on the blank
The original plan was to make the blank as the width of the mounting plate. Doing the next I would make the opening a 1/4". Shape the drawhead and add the face.
A mounting plate was made out of .040 thick styrene the the width of the pad on the tender frame. Use ACC gel to glue it in place. Stipple the ACC onto the plate to look like a rough casting.
D-oh!!!!!!!! Always check your plans, the drawhead is too long.
We cut back the coupler face and redrilled the pin hole.
Contour the head to look like the prototype. Add some bolts to make it look like it is bolted to the tender frame. Paint the plate black and the head burnt umber, our paint is still wet and needs some weathering.
Lining the car up with the pilot, a drawbar could be made from the original coupler pocket.
The gussets were removed from the top.
A "C" shaped piece was made and glued to the coupler pocket.
An oversize piece closed out the top of the new coupler drawbar.
This is the drawbar pocket that we are going to represent. Finally found this in my cabinet it is Sn3.
Trim the new pocket to match the coupler pocket. Drill holes for Nut and Bolt castings. One in the original location at the bottom and a similar spacing at the top.
Use ACC Gel to fill the gaps and stipple on some to roughen the surface.
Add the bolts and paint the coupler black. The stippled ACC Gel makes a good texture for the areas beat by the other coupler and inserting the pins but I would have smoothed some of the areas.
The drawhead from the front. It needs to be weathered. I wanted the appearance of use but having a thick layer of paint.
The uncoupling levers will be cut back to represent handrails.
The sides are too rough and will be corrected later. It looks better from layout distance.
A long link is needed with 18" radius curves. This is the other reason I use a U-link. You cannot us the prototype three piece because of the geometry problems of the links.
AND YES I KNOW THAT THERE ARE COMMERICIAL LINK AND PINS AVAILABLE BUT THEY DON'T FIT MY APPLICATION AND APPEARANCE REQUIREMENTS.