This is my creek after several attempts  of filling it with "water".  The bed of the creek was formed with plaster and a layer of reddish paver sand was formed on the bottom. This was held in place with a mixture of diluted white glue. I removed the Lichen before the creek was filled with "water". The diluted white glue sealed the creek bed.
The effect I was looking for was an underground stream emanating from a point at the base of the cliff  rushing down past the bridge. I wanted water in the creek to justify the trestle. If there is no water the railroad would just pour fill around the trestle.
Several methods to achieve rushing water were tried. Gloss medium lacked body when it dried and was too transparent. Hot glue lacked workability. Undiluted white glue also had no body and did not look like anything but dried white glue.  Then I tried silicone caulk, beads were spread out down the center of the stream path. The caulk was then poked and prodded into waves and riplets.
The idea for using caulk was from a post on the Yahoo FinescaleOn30 forum. The post was from Australia by a Professor Klyzlr using a solvent based caulk. I used GE Silicone II caulk and it worked well. I had a tube lying around from mounting motors
The caulk was applied down the creek bed by putting beads down the center and drawing them out to the sides. Then the edges were filled in up to the rocks. It was easier to control by going inside out. The caulk should be prodded into diagonal waves poking it upward. The caulk will strand and my mistake was to pull them down.
The caulk to represent the rushing torrent is applied to a point where the stream bed goes level. A clay dam is applied. Children's plastic clay is used to make the dam.  Press it tight against the bench work to make a water tight seal.
The stream bed is just an application of unsifted reddish paver gravel purchased at Home Dept.  The gluing in place with diluted white glue sealed the stream bed.
This my first experience with Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water". It is a resin that does not require mixing, just pour it into the stream bed. It is self-leveling. The instructions on the bottle are vague so I was flying blind.  Right after I finished this the July 2004 Model Railroader had an article about using it. Make sure you follow the instructions about a 1/8" deep layer. I ended up pouring a 1/4 " layer and it ended up shrinking down to the 1/8". It took about five days for the too thick resin layer to dry. I pulled the resin against the shoreline and feathered it out. I liked the product it appears to be some sort of vinyly plastic.
The "Realistic Water" shrinks down if applied in too thick of a pour. This is how it looked after the initial layer dryed. It looked good except it was not deep enough. I dry brushed Liquitex acrylic titanium white onto the surface to represent foam. From my experience I would pour several thin layers and foam each layer to give the water turbulence. Make the foam come out from wherever there is a blockage of water flow around the piles and around the rocks.
Dry brush the Titanium white on the crests ot the Silicon Caulk. Carry out the foaming pattern onto the resin water thinning out the foam as you move away from the turbulance envoked by the caulk. The resin water will be basically flat but the dry brushed white makes the water look like it is turbulent and moving.
Needing to pour more resin, I decided to try something. Caulk was applied around areas were the water  would look turbulent. The caulk was pulled out from the rock area and made wavy, indicated by the circle.
The "Realistic Water" dries to a 1/8" thick layer, so an additional layer was added. It dried in less than 24 hours like the instructions said. I like the product and would use it again.
This is the "final" effect, the bubbly areas have been dry brushed. I like the "Realistic Water" for a rushing at stream. It contours to the rocks and looks like it is oozing over them.
The use of children's modeling clay proved to be a mistake. The Realistic Water stuck to the clay and the clay stuck to the wood benchwork and everything else. I think I would try parrifin or find a clay that doesn't stick. I managed to fix-up the mistake and the brown areas will be painted green when the benchwork is painted.
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